Choosing the right sewing machine needle
Universal, ballpoint, jersey, stretch, denim, microtex: match the needle type to the fabric and the size to its weight. A fresh needle fixes more problems than you would think.
Pinny's tip
Schmetz suggests a new needle about every 8 hours of sewing, or at the start of each project. A bent or blunt one causes skipped stitches and snags.
Schmetz suggests a new needle about every 8 hours of sewing, or at the start of each project. A bent or blunt one causes skipped stitches and snags.
What you'll need
- A pack of universal needles: size 80/12 covers most medium cottons.
- Ballpoint or jersey needles: for knits.
- Denim (jeans) needles: for thick, tight fabrics.
Step by step
- Read the fabric: woven or knit? Light, medium or heavy?
- Pick the type: universal for most wovens, ballpoint or jersey for knits, stretch for very stretchy fabrics, microtex for fine, tightly woven fabrics, jeans for denim and canvas.
- Pick the size: the bigger number, the thicker the needle. 70/10 light, 80/12 medium, 90/14 medium-heavy, 100/16 heavy.
- Match the thread: thicker thread needs a bigger eye, so a bigger needle.
- Change the needle with the machine switched off, flat side to the back on most domestic machines (check your manual).
- Sew a test line on a scrap. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type or a tired needle.
Watch
What size sewing machine needle do you use for what fabric??? Learn how to figure it out! (11:58)
By Evelyn Wood · Open on YouTube
Chosen from its title and channel: an 11-minute video from Evelyn Wood on the same topic as this guide. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.
Cheat sheet
| Fabric | Needle type | Typical size |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton poplin, quilting cotton | Universal | 80/12 |
| Lawn, voile, silk-like polyester | Microtex or universal | 70/10 |
| T-shirt jersey | Jersey or ballpoint | 70/10–80/12 |
| Swimwear, very stretchy knits | Stretch | 75/11–90/14 |
| Denim, canvas | Jeans | 90/14–100/16 |
Schmetz needles carry a colour band showing the type, which helps when needles get mixed up in the tin.
Watch it done
- What size sewing machine needle do you use for what fabric??? Learn how to figure it out! by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
Sources
All checked 1 November 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.