How to sew a double-fold hem

Fold the edge over twice so the raw edge is hidden, press, then stitch. The neatest everyday hem for trousers, skirts, curtains and bags.

Pinny's tip
Press each fold before you pin. Pressing is what makes a hem straight; the sewing just holds it there.
Press each fold before you pin. Pressing is what makes a hem straight; the sewing just holds it there.
What you'll need
- Iron: pressing the folds is the key step.
- Seam gauge or ruler: for an even fold.
- Pins or clips: to hold the hem.
- Sewing machine: straight stitch, around 2.5 to 3mm long.
Step by step
- Check how much hem your pattern allows. A common double-fold hem is two equal folds, for example 12mm then 12mm.
- If the raw edge frays a lot, zigzag it first.
- Fold the edge to the wrong side by the first amount, measuring as you go. Press.
- Fold again by the second amount, so the raw edge is tucked inside. Press again and pin or clip.
- Sew from the wrong side, close to the inner folded edge, about 2mm in.
- Start and finish at a side seam, overlapping your stitches by a couple of centimetres instead of backstitching for a neater finish.
- Press the finished hem.
Watch
How to Make a Double-Fold Hem | Sewing Machine (3:09)
By Howcast · Open on YouTube
Chosen from its title and channel: a 3-minute video from Howcast on the same topic as this guide. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.
Which hem when?
| Hem | Good for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Double-fold (equal folds) | Most woven cottons, bags, curtains | Hides the raw edge completely |
| Narrow double-fold | Light fabrics, shirt tails | Fiddly round curves: go slowly |
| Single fold, edge finished | Thick fabrics | Zigzag or overlock the edge, fold once |
| Twin needle | Knits | See our guide to sewing knits |
Watch it done
- How to Make a Double-Fold Hem | Sewing Machine by Howcast on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
Sources
All checked 1 November 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.