Fabric grain and bias explained

Woven fabric has a lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvedge, least stretch), a crosswise grain (a little stretch) and the bias at 45 degrees (most stretch and drape).

Beginner15 minutes

ResearchedSewSift editorialChecked 1 Nov 2026

Pinny's tip

What you'll need

A piece of woven fabric: to feel the directions.
Ruler: to check grainlines.

Step by step

Find the selvedge, the finished edge that doesn't fray.
The lengthwise grain runs parallel to it. Most pattern grainlines follow it.
The grainline arrow on a pattern piece should sit parallel to the selvedges.
The bias runs at 45 degrees. Cut binding and bias-cut skirts this way.
If there's no selvedge, pull a thread or tear across to find the grain.

Watch

What is the grain of fabric? What is the grainline? And how to find and use it! - Sewing Terminology (8:24)
By Evelyn Wood · Open on YouTube

The video this technique page has always pointed to, an 8-minute one from Evelyn Wood. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.

Common mistakes

Ignoring grainlines. Garments twist.
Stretching bias edges. Staystitch them.
Assuming the cut edge is straight. Shops rarely cut on grain.

Watch it done

What is the grain of fabric? What is the grainline? And how to find and use it! - Sewing Terminology by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
Identifying Your Fabric: Selvage, Bias and Grain Line | Craftsy Sewing Tutorial by Craftsy on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
HOW TO FIND THE GRAINLINE WITH NO SELVAGE? 3 tips to find the grainline on any fabric, even scraps! by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.

Sources

All checked 1 November 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.