Choosing fabric for a toile
Pick toile fabric that behaves like your final fabric: calico for structured wovens, an old sheet for drapier ones, and a cheap knit of similar stretch for knit patterns.
Pinny's tip
Charity shop sheets and duvet covers are a cheap toile source.
Charity shop sheets and duvet covers are a cheap toile source.
What you'll need
- Calico: firm, cheap woven.
- Old sheets: softer drape.
- Cheap jersey: for knit toiles.
Step by step
- Look at the weight and drape of your final fabric.
- Choose a cheap fabric with similar behaviour.
- For knits, match the stretch percentage.
- Avoid very loose weaves that distort.
Watch
WHAT'S THE BEST FABRIC TO USE FOR A TOILE OR MOCKUP? Muslin? Calico? Bedsheets? What about knits??? (12:45)
By Evelyn Wood · Open on YouTube
The video this technique page has always pointed to, a 12-minute one from Evelyn Wood. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.
Common mistakes
- Calico for everything. It’s stiffer than most dress fabrics.
- Woven toile for a knit. Fit won’t match.
- Expensive toile fabric. Keep it cheap.
Watch it done
- WHAT’S THE BEST FABRIC TO USE FOR A TOILE OR MOCKUP? Muslin? Calico? Bedsheets? What about knits??? by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
- Why bother making a toile/ mock-up/ muslin?? And how making one can improve your sewing! by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
Sources
All checked 1 November 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.
- Tilly and the Buttons: When, Why + How to Make a Toile or Muslin
- Sew Essential: What is a toile (or muslin) and do you really need one?
- YouTube: WHAT'S THE BEST FABRIC TO USE FOR A TOILE OR MOCKUP? Muslin? Calico? Bedsheets? What about knits??? (Evelyn Wood)
- YouTube: Why bother making a toile/ mock-up/ muslin?? And how making one can improve your sewing! (Evelyn Wood)