Fabrics and interfacing
Fabrics and interfacing: technique guides for US sewists.
I poke through every pattern and product so you only get the best.
– Pinny
How to choose fabric for a pattern
Start with the pattern's fabric suggestions, then match weight, drape and stretch. Stable cotton is easiest for beginners; slippery, sheer and very stretchy fabrics are harder.
Choosing fabric for a toile
Pick toile fabric that behaves like your final fabric: calico for structured wovens, an old sheet for drapier ones, and a cheap knit of similar stretch for knit patterns.
Fabric grain and bias explained
Woven fabric has a lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvedge, least stretch), a crosswise grain (a little stretch) and the bias at 45 degrees (most stretch and drape).
Interfacing explained: what it is and how to fuse it
Interfacing is a hidden layer that gives collars, waistbands, button stands and bags their shape. Choose one a little lighter than your fabric and fuse it with pressure, not sliding.
How to make bias binding
Cut strips at 45 degrees to the selvedge, join them with diagonal seams, then press the edges in, ideally with a bias tape maker.