How to sew an invisible zip

An invisible (concealed) zip hides in the seam so only the pull shows. It is mostly careful marking and pinning; an invisible zip foot makes it much easier.

Pinny's tip
Buy a zip at least 2–1.2 in (3 cm) longer than the opening. You sew the zip in BEFORE you sew the rest of the seam.

What you'll need

• Invisible zip: 2–1.2 in (3 cm) longer than the opening.
• Invisible (concealed) zip foot: check it fits your machine.
• Standard zip foot: for closing the seam below the zip.
• Chalk or washable marker: to mark where the zip ends.

Step by step

1. Finish the raw edges of both seam allowances (zigzag or overlock) and press. Don't sew the seam yet.
2. Mark the end of the opening on both pieces, and mark the seam line.
3. Fit the invisible zip foot, choose straight stitch with the needle in the centre.
4. Open the zip. Lay one side face down on the right side of one fabric piece, with the teeth on the seam line. Pin.
5. Roll the teeth open with a finger, sit them in the groove of the foot and sew from the top down to your mark. Backstitch.
6. Close the zip to check it lines up, then pin the other side to the other piece, making sure the zip isn't twisted. Open it again and sew that side in the other groove.
7. Close the zip. Swap to a standard zip foot, pull the zip tail out of the way and sew the rest of the seam from just above the end of your zip stitching.
8. Press the seam open below the zip, on a cool iron, and stitch the ends of the zip tape to the seam allowances.

Tips

• Can see the zip? Sew again a little closer to the teeth.
• A bubble at the bottom? The seam below and the zip stitching didn’t meet closely enough. Unpick a few stitches and join them up.
• No invisible zip foot? A standard zip foot works if you sew slowly right beside the teeth.

Sources

All checked November 1, 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.

1. Brother: how to use the concealed zipper foot
2. Pfaff: using the invisible zipper foot
3. Brother: concealed zip tutorial
4. Professor Pincushion: How to Sew an Invisible Zipper (YouTube)