Seam finishes for beginners
A seam finish stops raw edges fraying in the wash. Start with zigzag, then try French seams and Hong Kong binding when you want a nicer inside.
Pinny's tip
Test every finish on a scrap of your real fabric first. It takes two minutes and saves an hour of unpicking.
Test every finish on a scrap of your real fabric first. It takes two minutes and saves an hour of unpicking.
What you'll need
- Sewing machine with zigzag: for the easiest finish.
- Pinking shears (optional): for firm fabrics that don't fray much.
- Bias tape: for bound and Hong Kong finishes.
Step by step
- Zigzag: set a medium zigzag (about 2.5–3mm (1/8 in) wide, 1.5–2mm (1/16 in) long) and sew so the right swing just goes off the raw edge. Use an overcast foot if you have one.
- Overlocked: if you have an overlocker, trim just a sliver as you sew and let the machine feed the fabric.
- French seam, part 1: put the fabric WRONG sides together and sew a narrow seam (about 6mm (1/4 in)). Trim the allowance to about 3mm (1/8 in) and press.
- French seam, part 2: fold RIGHT sides together with the first seam on the fold, press, and sew again about 9mm (3/8 in) in (for a 0.6 in (1.5 cm) allowance). The raw edges are now trapped inside.
- Hong Kong finish: press the seam open. Sew a bias strip right side to right side along one seam allowance, wrap it round the raw edge, and stitch in the ditch from the front. Repeat on the other side.
- Press every finished seam.
Watch
How to Sew a French Seam | Sewing Machine (4:06)
By Howcast · Open on YouTube
The video this technique page has always pointed to, a 4-minute one from Howcast. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.
Which finish when?
| Finish | Best for | Watch out |
|---|---|---|
| Zigzag | Most cottons when you don’t have an overlocker | Can bunch on very fine fabric |
| Overlocked | Almost anything, especially knits | Needs an overlocker |
| Pinked | Firm fabrics that fray little | Not for things washed often |
| French seam | Sheer and light fabrics, straight seams | Bulky on thick fabric and tight curves |
| Hong Kong | Unlined jackets, seams pressed open | Slower |
| Bound | Seams pressed to one side | Bulkier than Hong Kong |
Sources
All checked November 1, 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.