Hand-sewn catch stitch (herringbone) hem

A catch stitch is a crossed hand stitch that holds a hem with a little give. It's the tailoring choice for wool, heavier fabrics and knits.

Pinny's tip
Aim for the same distance between stitches all the way round, and pick up just a single thread of the garment fabric so little shows on the right side.

What you'll need

• Hand-sewing needle: a fine 'sharps' or 'betweens'.
• Matching thread: polyester all-purpose is fine.
• Thimble (optional): helps on thick fabric.

Step by step

1. Finish the raw edge and press the hem up. Pin.
2. Bring the needle through the hem allowance near its finished edge.
3. Take a tiny horizontal stitch in the garment just above the hem edge, picking up one or two threads.
4. Move diagonally down and right and take a small stitch in the hem allowance.
5. Move diagonally up and right and take another tiny stitch in the garment. The thread makes an X pattern.
6. Repeat round the hem, then press lightly.

Common mistakes

• Big bites into the garment. Pick up only one or two threads.
• Pulling tight. Leave the stitches relaxed.
• Long stitches. Space them about 0.4 in (1 cm) apart so the hem doesn’t droop.

Watch it done

• How To: Herringbone / Catch Stitch (Tailoring / Hemming) (Blind Hem by Hand) by Made to Sew on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
• How to Sew: Herringbone Catch Stitch | Hemming Heavy Fabrics & Knits | Hand Sewing for Beginners by Rokolee DIY on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
• How to Sew A Catch Stitch by Professor Pincushion on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.

Sources

All checked November 1, 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.

1. YouTube: How To: Herringbone / Catch Stitch (Tailoring / Hemming) (Blind Hem by Hand) (Made to Sew)
2. YouTube: How to Sew: Herringbone Catch Stitch | Hemming Heavy Fabrics & Knits | Hand Sewing for Beginners (Rokolee DIY)
3. YouTube: How to Sew A Catch Stitch (Professor Pincushion)