How to make a toile (muslin)
A toile is a quick test version of a garment in cheap fabric. You sew the main seams, try it on, mark changes, then copy them to the pattern before cutting your good fabric.
Pinny's tip
Choose toile fabric with a similar weight and drape to your real fabric. Calico won't tell you much about a knit dress.
Choose toile fabric with a similar weight and drape to your real fabric. Calico won't tell you much about a knit dress.
What you'll need
- Calico or old sheet: cheap woven fabric of similar weight.
- Long stitch length: for quick unpicking.
- Marker pen: to write changes straight on the toile.
Step by step
- Trace your size so the original pattern stays intact.
- Cut the main pieces; leave out facings, pockets and linings.
- Sew the main seams with a long stitch; mark seam lines in pen on the outside.
- Try it on with the right underwear and shoes. Pin out excess or slash and spread where it's tight.
- Mark every change in pen, then unpick and transfer the changes to the paper pattern.
- If you made big changes, make a second toile.
Watch
Why bother making a toile/ mock-up/ muslin?? And how making one can improve your sewing! (11:35)
By Evelyn Wood · Open on YouTube
The video this technique page has always pointed to, an 11-minute one from Evelyn Wood. Embedded from YouTube with credit; we don't host it. It only loads when you press play.
Common mistakes
- Using very different fabric. The fit won’t translate.
- Fitting without marking. Write on the toile.
- Over-fitting. Leave ease to move and sit.
Watch it done
- Why bother making a toile/ mock-up/ muslin?? And how making one can improve your sewing! by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
- WHAT’S THE BEST FABRIC TO USE FOR A TOILE OR MOCKUP? Muslin? Calico? Bedsheets? What about knits??? by Evelyn Wood on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
- Drafting, sewing, and fitting a toile by Unpicker on YouTube. Opens on YouTube; the video belongs to its creator.
Sources
All checked November 1, 2026. We read these; we did not test the products ourselves.
- Tilly and the Buttons: When, Why + How to Make a Toile or Muslin
- YouTube: Why bother making a toile/ mock-up/ muslin?? And how making one can improve your sewing! (Evelyn Wood)
- YouTube: WHAT'S THE BEST FABRIC TO USE FOR A TOILE OR MOCKUP? Muslin? Calico? Bedsheets? What about knits??? (Evelyn Wood)
- YouTube: Drafting, sewing, and fitting a toile (Unpicker)